Beyond Paradise
Koh Russei, Cambodia
Searching for the "Moment"
This was our dorm, my first day, paint wouldn't come off even after swimming in ocean and scrubbing!
After two weeks of mainland Cambodia, and seeing more temples than I thought possible in that time frame, it was time to head south toward the beaches. Stopped in Kampot, was planning on doing a lot there, but my stomach did not agree. I spent two days reading and running to the WC(never figured out what that stands for either but I know it's a bathroom!). Three books later and annoyed from being sick I really just wanted a beach so I decided to abort my plans and head to Sihanoukville. I was a little disappointed at the time, but looking back it was the best thing that could have happened. It's funny how things work out. I was feeling a little down in Kampot, still a little sick, and after checking my email found out that they were upgrading captains back home and I could have been in the upgrade. I questioned my decision to travel for a few minutes and wrote down some thoughts in my journal...
"Just found out OSU is the #1 seed and won the Big Ten (conference & tournament)! 16:46 feeling a little better finally. Also found out David, Adam, and 6-8 other first officers are upgrading to captain as I write this! Unfortunately a lot of junior guys to me so it won't help my seniority but happy for everyone. All these trips and time to think to myself, still can't figure out what will really make me happy. Although living for the moment has never let me down yet. Maybe that is the key."
It was the first time I ever questioned my decision to travel, but it didn't take long before I realized I had made the right choice. Every trip I have been on has it's "moment" where I think to myself 'wow, this is why I travel'. I had my hopes up that the moment would occur earlier in the trip but I was let down by a couple of things. Although I had some great moments, and maybe I'm just getting spoiled with amazing experiences, I wanted more. So hoping for a change of luck on the coast I got the next bus out of town.
On my bus to "Snookyville" we picked up a familiar looking passenger. I had met Edd about a week earlier at the hostel in Siem Reap, didn't know him that well, but remembered him as a cool guy. Little did I know we would be spending the next two weeks together. I guess it was just meant to be, me getting sick, and Edd was in Kampot waiting for his new debit card to arrive after losing it in Sihanoukville. We both had an uncomfortable ride, being tall is definitely not an advantage when traveling by bus. I was awkwardly sitting spread eagle for the trip while Edd was leg-spooning some Cambodian guy and had to get out every time we stopped. We passed what seemed to be a sweat shop, hundreds of kids walking into a shoe factory. I thought it was a school at first and everyone was on recess but a closer look revealed a different story. Also I've never heard of a school called Red Star Shoe Factory.
After arriving in Sihanoukville we went down to Serendipity Beach and it was the absolute opposite of what I look for in a beach. Lot's of tourists, beach bars, beach chairs littering the beach, and annoying locals selling everything from sunglasses to shrimp. "No", is not an acceptable answer when they ask you if you want something. Either you have to say "NO" about 10 times or do what I do and just ignore them. No eye contact and pretend you don't speak English or their language is the best method although I feel rude, they are being rude by disturbing my peace. Edd and I caught up with each others travels until we could stand the beach no longer. We made plans to meet up later and headed back to our hostels.
Having Irish ancestors and it being St. Patrick's Day of course I had to party that night. Edd decided to stay in so I was on my own again. Most places were extremely lame and annoying except for the guys who were break dance fighting(Zoolander!) but I ran into some people earlier who were working at a place called J.J.'s so I decided to check it out. Luckily, it was better than the rest of the places. Met a cool couple, painted my face green, and danced until I couldn't dance anymore. After failing to find any college basketball on the telly it was off to bed.
"Just found out OSU is the #1 seed and won the Big Ten (conference & tournament)! 16:46 feeling a little better finally. Also found out David, Adam, and 6-8 other first officers are upgrading to captain as I write this! Unfortunately a lot of junior guys to me so it won't help my seniority but happy for everyone. All these trips and time to think to myself, still can't figure out what will really make me happy. Although living for the moment has never let me down yet. Maybe that is the key."
It was the first time I ever questioned my decision to travel, but it didn't take long before I realized I had made the right choice. Every trip I have been on has it's "moment" where I think to myself 'wow, this is why I travel'. I had my hopes up that the moment would occur earlier in the trip but I was let down by a couple of things. Although I had some great moments, and maybe I'm just getting spoiled with amazing experiences, I wanted more. So hoping for a change of luck on the coast I got the next bus out of town.
On my bus to "Snookyville" we picked up a familiar looking passenger. I had met Edd about a week earlier at the hostel in Siem Reap, didn't know him that well, but remembered him as a cool guy. Little did I know we would be spending the next two weeks together. I guess it was just meant to be, me getting sick, and Edd was in Kampot waiting for his new debit card to arrive after losing it in Sihanoukville. We both had an uncomfortable ride, being tall is definitely not an advantage when traveling by bus. I was awkwardly sitting spread eagle for the trip while Edd was leg-spooning some Cambodian guy and had to get out every time we stopped. We passed what seemed to be a sweat shop, hundreds of kids walking into a shoe factory. I thought it was a school at first and everyone was on recess but a closer look revealed a different story. Also I've never heard of a school called Red Star Shoe Factory.
After arriving in Sihanoukville we went down to Serendipity Beach and it was the absolute opposite of what I look for in a beach. Lot's of tourists, beach bars, beach chairs littering the beach, and annoying locals selling everything from sunglasses to shrimp. "No", is not an acceptable answer when they ask you if you want something. Either you have to say "NO" about 10 times or do what I do and just ignore them. No eye contact and pretend you don't speak English or their language is the best method although I feel rude, they are being rude by disturbing my peace. Edd and I caught up with each others travels until we could stand the beach no longer. We made plans to meet up later and headed back to our hostels.
Having Irish ancestors and it being St. Patrick's Day of course I had to party that night. Edd decided to stay in so I was on my own again. Most places were extremely lame and annoying except for the guys who were break dance fighting(Zoolander!) but I ran into some people earlier who were working at a place called J.J.'s so I decided to check it out. Luckily, it was better than the rest of the places. Met a cool couple, painted my face green, and danced until I couldn't dance anymore. After failing to find any college basketball on the telly it was off to bed.
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First Days on the Beach
I woke up the next morning fairly easily considering the late night, my adrenaline was in full gear with high expectations for the island. After taking a few self portraits of my hideous green face, I went to wake up Edd. I don't recall eating any breakfast, and believe we both went straight to the dock. The boat was about 45 minutes late so we sat around talking to the people at the bar where you buy the 10 dollar round trip tickets. Then came Tim who told us the boat was ready. Awaiting us was the small boat ready to take us into the unknown.
The boat ride was pretty wet, but luckily this wasn't my first rodeo. I came prepared with sunscreen, chapstick, and my bag always has a cover which can be attached at a moments notice to keep it dry. I learned my lesson in the San Blas Islands, and always prepare for the worst on a boat now. Even though I probably looked the least prepared with my jeans and shoes on, that wasn't the case. I don't care about appearance or if people think I'm a rookie. I do what I have to do. When it came time to climb off the boat into the water I simply removed my shoes, socks, and jeans, along with my backpack, and threw them on the beach. I arrived in Koh Ru with a green face, wearing boxers, and getting funny looks from everyone...not much would change throughout the next two weeks!
Walking from the water to the lounge area, and up to the bar to check in, I had no idea how this place and these people I was talking to would affect me. When they told Edd and I they didn't have our reservation which we made the night before, we weren't that surprised but luckily they still had room. Hana, who at the time was just some girl working the desk, asked how many nights I wanted to stay and I said "two". She put me down for three nights just in case I changed my mind. The dorm rooms were nothing special from first look, but then again I'm only worried about the price. Three dollars a night is a great deal for an island with no other accommodations where they could jack the prices if they wanted to. After skipping breakfast we were more than happy that the kitchen stayed open a little later since our boat was late. My first meal on the island was "The Magic". Bacon, mashed potatoes, beans, and cheese(!) made this meal more than suitably named. It would not be the last time I indulged on this champion of a meal.
After a swim in the refreshing ocean, I made my first claim on the hammocks adjacent to the lounge. Like many days to come, this is where I spent the rest of the day lazing in the battered, but extremely satisfying haven, which seemed built especially for my interests. Reading and chatting with some guys from the boat was great, but after awhile the night before finally caught up with me. After a much needed nap the kitchen was back open and after asking around I realized everyone was recommending the Barracuda. Back in Florida, 'cuda is known as trash fish. You throw them back or use them as bait. I always heard it was a disgusting fish to eat, but took everyones word and tried it anyway. Ended up being one of the most delicious things I've ever tasted. After dinner I spent a peaceful evening getting to know everyone a little better. Went to bed the earliest I did all trip feeling really good about this place. Check out the video below for some footage of my boat ride, the beach, hammocks, and the lounge.
The boat ride was pretty wet, but luckily this wasn't my first rodeo. I came prepared with sunscreen, chapstick, and my bag always has a cover which can be attached at a moments notice to keep it dry. I learned my lesson in the San Blas Islands, and always prepare for the worst on a boat now. Even though I probably looked the least prepared with my jeans and shoes on, that wasn't the case. I don't care about appearance or if people think I'm a rookie. I do what I have to do. When it came time to climb off the boat into the water I simply removed my shoes, socks, and jeans, along with my backpack, and threw them on the beach. I arrived in Koh Ru with a green face, wearing boxers, and getting funny looks from everyone...not much would change throughout the next two weeks!
Walking from the water to the lounge area, and up to the bar to check in, I had no idea how this place and these people I was talking to would affect me. When they told Edd and I they didn't have our reservation which we made the night before, we weren't that surprised but luckily they still had room. Hana, who at the time was just some girl working the desk, asked how many nights I wanted to stay and I said "two". She put me down for three nights just in case I changed my mind. The dorm rooms were nothing special from first look, but then again I'm only worried about the price. Three dollars a night is a great deal for an island with no other accommodations where they could jack the prices if they wanted to. After skipping breakfast we were more than happy that the kitchen stayed open a little later since our boat was late. My first meal on the island was "The Magic". Bacon, mashed potatoes, beans, and cheese(!) made this meal more than suitably named. It would not be the last time I indulged on this champion of a meal.
After a swim in the refreshing ocean, I made my first claim on the hammocks adjacent to the lounge. Like many days to come, this is where I spent the rest of the day lazing in the battered, but extremely satisfying haven, which seemed built especially for my interests. Reading and chatting with some guys from the boat was great, but after awhile the night before finally caught up with me. After a much needed nap the kitchen was back open and after asking around I realized everyone was recommending the Barracuda. Back in Florida, 'cuda is known as trash fish. You throw them back or use them as bait. I always heard it was a disgusting fish to eat, but took everyones word and tried it anyway. Ended up being one of the most delicious things I've ever tasted. After dinner I spent a peaceful evening getting to know everyone a little better. Went to bed the earliest I did all trip feeling really good about this place. Check out the video below for some footage of my boat ride, the beach, hammocks, and the lounge.
check out the video of my boat ride over, the beach, hammocks, and lounge
The next day went similar to the first, except this time we were the ones watching all the newcomers struggling off the boat, while we were comfortably set up in our hammocks or propped up on pillows. Not much really went down during the day, but today there was some confusion and debates about what to do for the full moon. Full moon parties are common all over South East Asia, and are usually not really my type of party. At the start of the day the rumor was that the party was coming to our island, just the reason I wanted to leave Sihanoukville in the first place, to get away from the crowds of people. After three or four amendments to the location, eventually it was decided to be held on Otres Beach, near Sihanoukville. Luckily it was an hour boat ride away so the wanks weren't coming over to our island, but we still had to decide if we wanted to take a boat over and enjoy the mainland party or stay and have our own party. We all were torn at first and the idea of an hour boat trip at 10pm and then another ride back at 6am seemed like a really bad idea. Although I think everyone felt the same as me, sometimes bad ideas can turn out to be great stories and loads of fun. I'm normally very decisive about what I want to do, but in this case I just let everyone else decide. Both options were really appealing but we ended up deciding to stay on our island, make a fire, and hang out with each other. The moon was indeed full as forecasted, and it ended up being a nice evening and once again I went to bed at a decent time.
Acclimating Just Fine
The hammocks adjoining one of the two dorm rooms as well as the lounge area.
Waking up the next morning I realized that today I was originally planning on going back to the mainland to check out some other islands. As I went for a morning walk and swim, all I wanted to do was get back into my hammock and let another amazing day go by. I was starting to like the people more and more but I didn't really know them that well yet. I easily could have left and never thought twice about it. Something kept me here though. I don't know what exactly, it's unexplainable, or maybe it was just that everything was perfect here.
The island was so laid back during daylight hours everything seemed to be moving in slow motion. The people, animals(save Rambo the Goat), the whole universe seemed to creep by at a pace that would make an Enya music video seem like a death metal concert. Nothing mattered there, we had no phones, no television, only one computer used basically for emergencies or for the staff to keep in touch with family and friends. You would think the days lingered on forever but in fact, they seemed to fly by. There were absolutely no rules on the island of any type, however, there was a schedule we all seemed to follow, an unwritten set of laws we all just knew. Everyone there just understood, without ever having to explain or ask. Whenever I wanted to be left alone, no one talked to me. Whenever I wanted to talk, someone was always there. No one annoyed me, nothing bad ever happened. After only two days the island was already alluring my senses, only I didn't know how strong of an impression it was making. I didn't know it yet but I was about to become another auspicious character, drawn by an unknown force, to the island's ability to deter souls from leaving.
My life is pretty random, I don't need, nor do I prefer to live each day like the last. Changing things up keeps things exciting for me. The island was different. I did follow a schedule everyday, but it was perfect. This was a typical day on the island for myself and it seems almost everyone else followed the same routine, although on their own clock. It wasn't as if we did these things all together, which is what made it nice for me. If you know me fairly well, you know I need my alone time, usually a few times a day. I never had a problem with that here. Obviously there was a lot more that went on; volleyball, capture the flag, Rambo's attacks on camp, firewood missions, jungle walks, etc. but this is just the usual everyday events.
The island was so laid back during daylight hours everything seemed to be moving in slow motion. The people, animals(save Rambo the Goat), the whole universe seemed to creep by at a pace that would make an Enya music video seem like a death metal concert. Nothing mattered there, we had no phones, no television, only one computer used basically for emergencies or for the staff to keep in touch with family and friends. You would think the days lingered on forever but in fact, they seemed to fly by. There were absolutely no rules on the island of any type, however, there was a schedule we all seemed to follow, an unwritten set of laws we all just knew. Everyone there just understood, without ever having to explain or ask. Whenever I wanted to be left alone, no one talked to me. Whenever I wanted to talk, someone was always there. No one annoyed me, nothing bad ever happened. After only two days the island was already alluring my senses, only I didn't know how strong of an impression it was making. I didn't know it yet but I was about to become another auspicious character, drawn by an unknown force, to the island's ability to deter souls from leaving.
My life is pretty random, I don't need, nor do I prefer to live each day like the last. Changing things up keeps things exciting for me. The island was different. I did follow a schedule everyday, but it was perfect. This was a typical day on the island for myself and it seems almost everyone else followed the same routine, although on their own clock. It wasn't as if we did these things all together, which is what made it nice for me. If you know me fairly well, you know I need my alone time, usually a few times a day. I never had a problem with that here. Obviously there was a lot more that went on; volleyball, capture the flag, Rambo's attacks on camp, firewood missions, jungle walks, etc. but this is just the usual everyday events.
The Koh Ru-tine
- wake up...whenever
- morning swim
- air-dry in the Sun
- eat either "the magic" or "the BCP" - bacon & cheese pasta
- grab a book and a hammock
- boat arrives...watch all the new people get off
- help unload the boat
- shower...aka swim in the ocean
- air-dry and back to hammock
- klang-o-clock?
- power turns on 6pm...kitchen re-opens!
- barracuda & mash, khmer curry, more pasta, or whatever
- start conversations with all the new people and try to explain my appearance(welcoming committee!)
- games, dancing on the bar, etc
- midnight, power goes off, torches(flashlights) come on.
- sing kumbaya and play with the glowing plankton in the ocean
- dry off, try to find bed in the dark!
Magic in my Belly, Magic in the Sea
Game time with(from left to right) Ailsa, Brit, Brit, Jess, Brit, Brit, Spencer, Chris, Edd, Ben who are all British as well.
After making the incredibly easy decision to stay on the island "one more night" the rest of the day was spent intoxicated with the serenity of the island. I met two girls from New Zealand, Ailsa and Jess, newcomers straight off the boat who moved into our dorm. Had a great time watching the sunset with them and learning my new favorite word: jandals. After dinner it was time to learn some new games. One childish New Zealand game (sorry guys!) and a counting game called 21. I was on the verge of crapping my shorts from laughing so hard after one player(won't mention a name, but you might guess from the picture to the right, hah!) had some serious issues playing the counting game.
After the power was shut off, it was time to head to the ocean. Although there was a beautiful moon the past couple nights it was shining too bright for one of the highlights of the island; the phosphorescence, or bioluminescence may be the better word after a little research. An infinite amount of glimmering plankton turned the water into a spectacle you have to see to believe. The dark water lights up to imitate a night full of the most brilliant shining stars as the plankton are agitated. It's a mesmerizing experience watching your hands and legs radiate with the mystical glow. I'd seen it once before in the San Blas Islands but it's one thing that will never get old. Snorkeling underwater with the plankton was a first however, and a must if you ever get the chance. I was hoping we could I could capture it with my underwater camera, but unfortunately it didn't turn out. We did have a blast kicking our legs while we were all embraced in a big circle. An explosion of light. Magic.
After the power was shut off, it was time to head to the ocean. Although there was a beautiful moon the past couple nights it was shining too bright for one of the highlights of the island; the phosphorescence, or bioluminescence may be the better word after a little research. An infinite amount of glimmering plankton turned the water into a spectacle you have to see to believe. The dark water lights up to imitate a night full of the most brilliant shining stars as the plankton are agitated. It's a mesmerizing experience watching your hands and legs radiate with the mystical glow. I'd seen it once before in the San Blas Islands but it's one thing that will never get old. Snorkeling underwater with the plankton was a first however, and a must if you ever get the chance. I was hoping we could I could capture it with my underwater camera, but unfortunately it didn't turn out. We did have a blast kicking our legs while we were all embraced in a big circle. An explosion of light. Magic.
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Paint the Jungle with a Storm of Chickens
Tiger-Edd, Zombie-Hana, Avatar-Tom, Goblin of Hate-Jess, Joker-Eric, Kiss-Kyle, M&M-Ailsa
My journal on the fourth day started, 'decided to stay one more night!' I was still oblivious to the fact that I was going to have such a hard time leaving. The days were ultimate chill, the nights maximum absurdity. The staff finally stopped asking me how many more nights I was planning on staying, and just assumed I'd be here awhile. They obviously were used to this and knew better than I did how captivating the island is.
Usually every other night on the island there is some kind of theme party. First we had the Full Moon party/bonfire, now it was time to get the creative juices flowing and start having some real lunacy. Most nights here you could label as a paint party, with everyone always finding a way to incorporate some kind of face paint into the occasion, but this was the official "paint party". We had a blast deciding what to transform into and painting each others faces was a great time by itself. I was originally going to be just a big yellow and black smiley face but it somehow turned into The Joker. It was loads of fun talking to people thinking how ridiculous they looked and realizing you probably look just as silly.
Once again the New Zealand girls taught me something new. This time it was one of my favorite themes for a game. Every time you get a certain card you become the "pose master" which means at any given time you can get up and form any crazy pose you want and everyone has to follow. I was scraping my brain for the most extreme yoga poses I knew! Also chicken goggles became another traditional game we would play, which is highly entertaining mainly due to the fact of making ridiculously loud chicken noises.
Usually every other night on the island there is some kind of theme party. First we had the Full Moon party/bonfire, now it was time to get the creative juices flowing and start having some real lunacy. Most nights here you could label as a paint party, with everyone always finding a way to incorporate some kind of face paint into the occasion, but this was the official "paint party". We had a blast deciding what to transform into and painting each others faces was a great time by itself. I was originally going to be just a big yellow and black smiley face but it somehow turned into The Joker. It was loads of fun talking to people thinking how ridiculous they looked and realizing you probably look just as silly.
Once again the New Zealand girls taught me something new. This time it was one of my favorite themes for a game. Every time you get a certain card you become the "pose master" which means at any given time you can get up and form any crazy pose you want and everyone has to follow. I was scraping my brain for the most extreme yoga poses I knew! Also chicken goggles became another traditional game we would play, which is highly entertaining mainly due to the fact of making ridiculously loud chicken noises.
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The next morning I decided to explore the island a little since the first few days were spent mostly in the hammock, ocean, or lounge. I took a walk down the beach and found a path that lead up a hill into the jungle. I've never turned down an inviting trail and I wasn't about to start today. As I entered the trail it was as if I was transported into a different world. The hot sun was shielded by the canopy of dense trees and the temperature took a sudden dip. The gentle sea breeze was replaced by a suffocating humidity which seemed to intensify with every step further up the hill. The soft lapping of waves against rocks was drowned out by dozens of birds happily singing the song of the jungle. It was so peaceful I was wishing I had brought my hammock to enjoy a different kind of tranquility. My video camera was the only thing I brought so I figured I'd just make a video. Ever since I can remember there is nothing I like more than exploring unknown spots. Whether it's a forest in Ohio or a small island in Cambodia, this is where I can let my imagination run wild.
check out the video of my trip through the jungle
This was where I spent a good part of everyday. The only time I used the computer the whole time on the island
After exploring it was back to the hammock, where I questioned whether or not I wanted to checkout the other islands or not. From my journal I wrote, 'possibly stay here rest of trip, place beginning to feel like home, people beginning to feel like family'. I was finally starting to realize how great this place really was, I had found my "moment", although it wasn't just one single event, I was literally living in the "moment".
The next day I was planning on taking the boat back to the island so I could check my schedule for next month. Days off in the beginning of the month would mean a longer trip so I was eager to find out. We ended up having a lot of people coming back so I couldn't make the trip. Luckily Lewis and Charlie let me use the computer so I could see my schedule and send a quick "hey Mom, I'm still alive" message. I ended up getting a great schedule with the first five days of April off which meant I had five more days to travel. Now it put me in a position where I could still see the other islands and not be in a rush. Luckily that day was one of the most laid back of the entire trip with almost no one on the island. Half of the people had gone back to the mainland for supplies, and there weren't many there to begin with at the time. I had a full day to think about what to do...then the boat arrived. It's funny, they were only gone a few hours but I was so happy to see them again. The boat motored in to sight a few minutes after a tumultuous thunderstorm rolled in over the island. After helping unload the boat I grabbed my video camera...
The next day I was planning on taking the boat back to the island so I could check my schedule for next month. Days off in the beginning of the month would mean a longer trip so I was eager to find out. We ended up having a lot of people coming back so I couldn't make the trip. Luckily Lewis and Charlie let me use the computer so I could see my schedule and send a quick "hey Mom, I'm still alive" message. I ended up getting a great schedule with the first five days of April off which meant I had five more days to travel. Now it put me in a position where I could still see the other islands and not be in a rush. Luckily that day was one of the most laid back of the entire trip with almost no one on the island. Half of the people had gone back to the mainland for supplies, and there weren't many there to begin with at the time. I had a full day to think about what to do...then the boat arrived. It's funny, they were only gone a few hours but I was so happy to see them again. The boat motored in to sight a few minutes after a tumultuous thunderstorm rolled in over the island. After helping unload the boat I grabbed my video camera...
check out the video of the storm
Even a thunderstorm can't ruin the vibe here. If you watched the video you can see it didn't last long anyway, the sun started creeping through the clouds shortly after. Sitting around talking about their boat ride, someone had the idea to go get firewood. Tom, Kyle, Charlie, Lewis, Edd, and I all set out with our awkward wooden pushcart. With some directions from the locals to a huge pile of wood we giddily went on our way with jeers from the rest of the lounge for getting firewood right after a rain. We ignored them and tried to act like tough men with our Klangs, cutting tools, and cart. We didn't get far until we came to the "needle grass" which felt like you were stepping on tiny needles. We all were barefoot(I don't think anyone wore anything on their feet the whole time) so all manliness was lost as we tiptoed like fairies across the annoying terrain. The peanut gallery was having a hoot while we questioned our decision. Luckily it didn't last long and soon we were out of sight from the beach.
The directions seemed simple but as we came to many forks in the road we realized we had no clue where we were going. After reaching the other side of the island, we knew we went to far and had to backtrack. Luckily the Khmer staff came to our rescue and told us the way once more. This time instead of lugging the cart with us we set off to find this hoard of wood they spoke about. After walking a good ten minutes without seeing anything we went back to the cart. To our surprise the locals had filled our cart with wood while we were gone! Mission accomplished I guess. Dragging the cart back was somewhat of a challenge but it was nice to do something physical after just lazing around the past few days. Back at camp it was dinner time and after we started to get into costume for the theme of the night...The Big Kids Party.
The directions seemed simple but as we came to many forks in the road we realized we had no clue where we were going. After reaching the other side of the island, we knew we went to far and had to backtrack. Luckily the Khmer staff came to our rescue and told us the way once more. This time instead of lugging the cart with us we set off to find this hoard of wood they spoke about. After walking a good ten minutes without seeing anything we went back to the cart. To our surprise the locals had filled our cart with wood while we were gone! Mission accomplished I guess. Dragging the cart back was somewhat of a challenge but it was nice to do something physical after just lazing around the past few days. Back at camp it was dinner time and after we started to get into costume for the theme of the night...The Big Kids Party.
Growing Older But Not Up
our lounge was turned into a clubhouse for big kids night
"Dress like you looked like when you were four" was Hana's response when people would ask what to wear. It's hard enough on an island with no stores, and when you are traveling with just a backpack you don't really have much to choose from. But people here become creative, whether it's borrowing an old local ladies pajamas like Lewis did, covering you face with chocolate Hana style, or crafting a horse to ride on like Saskia, I think everyone did pretty good. After forming a lynch mob to oust two newcomers from their bungalow we had everyone on the island around the center of the lounge which was now our "clubhouse".
The mob was only a few of us guys but with all our yelling, singing, and banging away at the door they finally gave in to their sleepiness and joined the club. Then it was time for the games to begin with pass the parcel followed by spin the bottle. The highlight of my night was watching Tim run around like a "big kid" and squirt everyone with the small water gun. More silly games followed and then we all had a huge gathering in the ocean. Enjoying the plankton show with arms around each other in a huge circle, someone broke out into the chorus of "Kumbaya". It soon became a tradition, even if it was only Joacim and I singing it some nights!
The mob was only a few of us guys but with all our yelling, singing, and banging away at the door they finally gave in to their sleepiness and joined the club. Then it was time for the games to begin with pass the parcel followed by spin the bottle. The highlight of my night was watching Tim run around like a "big kid" and squirt everyone with the small water gun. More silly games followed and then we all had a huge gathering in the ocean. Enjoying the plankton show with arms around each other in a huge circle, someone broke out into the chorus of "Kumbaya". It soon became a tradition, even if it was only Joacim and I singing it some nights!
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Before you watch the video of the first few parties, I forgot to mention some great characters in this whole trip. Mo was ending his two weeks when I got there but I had the pleasure of meeting him for a few days. Every night he would paint Staines Massive on his head to represent his city. I loved it so much one night I joined in with my 305. Also Rambo the Goat is one of the most entertaining beasts on Earth, but more about him later. We did paint Rambo for the paint party as well as you can see in the video. Also, Timmy Barnes who never stopped dancing the whole trip and the guy who never stopped juggling or drinking also make appearances.
check out the video of the first few parties
Warriors Come Out To Play
Capture the flag, Koh Ru style. Warrior paint and Klang.
Woke up the next morning and it was a perfect day. I knew I couldn't leave. Especially after hearing this place was sold and soon a foreign company was coming in and building a resort, or in my opinion ruining everything good about this place. If this was possibly the last time I had to experience this place then I wasn't going anywhere. That afternoon a few of the locals were playing volleyball and I had to join in. Just like everywhere I traveled in Cambodia, the locals were good and played everywhere. This was great for me since it is so hard to find good competition on the beaches in Florida. A sign was posted in our dorm warning against playing the Khmer staff because "they are really good and you'll probably lose". Challenge accepted. I met an Estonian guy, Olav, who was about 6'4'' and also played volleyball growing up like I did. After an extremely competitive but exhausting match we squeaked out the victory in a very close third game.
Straight to the ocean I went for my nightly "bath" to remove the sand and sweat that covered my body. For dinner I had the Khmer curry for the first time and it was just what I needed after working up a huge appetite. The bowl seemed endless and the delicious food more than satisfied my hunger. Later that evening after all the taunting we endured while gathering firewood, it had finally dried we enjoyed another bonfire. I learned a Cambodian card game with the locals that was great fun especially since beginners luck seemed to be on my side. Another gathering in the ocean for Kumbaya and plankton and then back to the dorm.
The next morning was as tranquil as usual but as the afternoon wore on excitement began to fill the air. It was decided the theme for today would be one of my favorite games as a kid, capture the flag! Roughly half of the camp decided to step out of relaxation mode for awhile and put on some warrior paint. As I said before, there weren't too many moments on the island where justifying face paint would be a challenge. We counted off the teams, painted up, and headed to our sides. Not really sure what the best rules for the game would be we just jumped right into the game. I was part of the green team and we decided our first strategy would be to leave Joacim and My(pronounced "me", if you're not from Sweden) behind to guard the flag. The rest of us made a bull rush for the flag thinking we could take the other read team by surprise. Mission failed, we all got caught and were sent to jail. This is where the rules of the game had to change.
The way it was set up on the beach it was impossible to get people out of jail. We came up with a new rule, the bar was now the jail and you couldn't leave until you drank a beer or took a shot. We ended up winning the first game after being Klanged out of jail. The second game we had a totally different strategy. I dove to the safe spot on the enemy side and then ran all the way behind their base and hid behind a tree. The other team was confused as what I was doing all the way back there. Either they could chase me and leave the flag open or let me be. After tagging some of the other team and sending them to jail, two more members of my team advanced to the safe zone on the red side. On the silent count of three we all made a dash from our positions and overtook the flag. With a couple of throws of the flag it was safe back on our side. Victory was ours again! Unfortunately we were all exhausted from all the running with beer in sloshing around in our stomachs and called it a day. Shortest game of capture the flag ever, great fun though!
Straight to the ocean I went for my nightly "bath" to remove the sand and sweat that covered my body. For dinner I had the Khmer curry for the first time and it was just what I needed after working up a huge appetite. The bowl seemed endless and the delicious food more than satisfied my hunger. Later that evening after all the taunting we endured while gathering firewood, it had finally dried we enjoyed another bonfire. I learned a Cambodian card game with the locals that was great fun especially since beginners luck seemed to be on my side. Another gathering in the ocean for Kumbaya and plankton and then back to the dorm.
The next morning was as tranquil as usual but as the afternoon wore on excitement began to fill the air. It was decided the theme for today would be one of my favorite games as a kid, capture the flag! Roughly half of the camp decided to step out of relaxation mode for awhile and put on some warrior paint. As I said before, there weren't too many moments on the island where justifying face paint would be a challenge. We counted off the teams, painted up, and headed to our sides. Not really sure what the best rules for the game would be we just jumped right into the game. I was part of the green team and we decided our first strategy would be to leave Joacim and My(pronounced "me", if you're not from Sweden) behind to guard the flag. The rest of us made a bull rush for the flag thinking we could take the other read team by surprise. Mission failed, we all got caught and were sent to jail. This is where the rules of the game had to change.
The way it was set up on the beach it was impossible to get people out of jail. We came up with a new rule, the bar was now the jail and you couldn't leave until you drank a beer or took a shot. We ended up winning the first game after being Klanged out of jail. The second game we had a totally different strategy. I dove to the safe spot on the enemy side and then ran all the way behind their base and hid behind a tree. The other team was confused as what I was doing all the way back there. Either they could chase me and leave the flag open or let me be. After tagging some of the other team and sending them to jail, two more members of my team advanced to the safe zone on the red side. On the silent count of three we all made a dash from our positions and overtook the flag. With a couple of throws of the flag it was safe back on our side. Victory was ours again! Unfortunately we were all exhausted from all the running with beer in sloshing around in our stomachs and called it a day. Shortest game of capture the flag ever, great fun though!
Down Tequila, Glue the Middle, Dress Up
Lining up the shots of tequila
That night was dollar tequila night, extremely fun games followed, and the night ended in the ocean as so many in the past. The next day was one of the best themes we would have, and also the last theme while I was here. Adding to the excitement of the party, we all decided to pay a little extra for dinner (6 USD) and have a massive barbecue. It was the first night the Swedish guys came in as well. As much as I loved everyone else, these guys would end up being my best friends on the island. They reminded me of my best friends from Ohio, always playing some sort of sport or game, competitive, and never without a laugh. We met in the dorm and then got to know each other a little better while throwing a Waboba ball in the ocean.
After the ocean, an unscheduled charter boat pulled up with four middle-aged guys from the USA. One had an Ohio State hat on so I had to talk to him. Being a huge fan I was really curious how our team was doing in the tournament. It struck me as odd that I hadn't even thought of basketball the whole time on the island. It was hard for me to make the decision to miss the entire month during my favorite time in sports, March Madness. I knew it would be worth it though. I found out we were tied at halftime with Kentucky and that's the last I would know until I got back to the mainland. The guys stayed just long enough to drink a couple Angkors and they were off. This was a key to knowing how long someone has been on the island. If you drink Angkor you are totally new, Klang is the only beer worthy in Koh Ru as you can tell from any of the pictures.
With our mouth's watering in anticipation for the barbecue, we all brainstormed about our costumes. I was debating between a few things including dressing up as one of the guys that came on the charter earlier, who looked like he was straight out of the eighties. As I was discussing ideas at the bar, Hana was setting up some new fly traps; straws smothered with sticky glue stuck a can. Some of the people there were annoyed by the flies that came in waves. Sometimes there were none and other times there were. I finally learned to ignore flies on my body after traveling in India and it's been a great new skill. While watching Hana handle the impossibly sticky glue an idea popped into my head...human fly stick! I proposed the question to everyone and I got mixed reactions. Some said I had to do it, others thought I was an idiot. So for everyone who thought I was an idiot, I did it for them.
If I was going to make this work it was crucial to plaster my costume on immediately. The glue, which is called "No-Rat", is supposed to be used to trap rats. I read the can before I put it on and it was hysterical, and lucky for me, non-toxic...so it said. I did a trial run with some on my finger and I managed to get it off after a little scrubbing, so with the help of Lewis, Charlie, and Leah, I became the human fly stick. Now all I had to do was my normal routine, bum in my hammock and attract flies. I felt bad for the flies as they hopelessly died a slow miserable death on my chest. It was a strange feeling having them wiggling around on my body trapped in the glue. But I figured they die on the stick anyway, so why not on me.
After the ocean, an unscheduled charter boat pulled up with four middle-aged guys from the USA. One had an Ohio State hat on so I had to talk to him. Being a huge fan I was really curious how our team was doing in the tournament. It struck me as odd that I hadn't even thought of basketball the whole time on the island. It was hard for me to make the decision to miss the entire month during my favorite time in sports, March Madness. I knew it would be worth it though. I found out we were tied at halftime with Kentucky and that's the last I would know until I got back to the mainland. The guys stayed just long enough to drink a couple Angkors and they were off. This was a key to knowing how long someone has been on the island. If you drink Angkor you are totally new, Klang is the only beer worthy in Koh Ru as you can tell from any of the pictures.
With our mouth's watering in anticipation for the barbecue, we all brainstormed about our costumes. I was debating between a few things including dressing up as one of the guys that came on the charter earlier, who looked like he was straight out of the eighties. As I was discussing ideas at the bar, Hana was setting up some new fly traps; straws smothered with sticky glue stuck a can. Some of the people there were annoyed by the flies that came in waves. Sometimes there were none and other times there were. I finally learned to ignore flies on my body after traveling in India and it's been a great new skill. While watching Hana handle the impossibly sticky glue an idea popped into my head...human fly stick! I proposed the question to everyone and I got mixed reactions. Some said I had to do it, others thought I was an idiot. So for everyone who thought I was an idiot, I did it for them.
If I was going to make this work it was crucial to plaster my costume on immediately. The glue, which is called "No-Rat", is supposed to be used to trap rats. I read the can before I put it on and it was hysterical, and lucky for me, non-toxic...so it said. I did a trial run with some on my finger and I managed to get it off after a little scrubbing, so with the help of Lewis, Charlie, and Leah, I became the human fly stick. Now all I had to do was my normal routine, bum in my hammock and attract flies. I felt bad for the flies as they hopelessly died a slow miserable death on my chest. It was a strange feeling having them wiggling around on my body trapped in the glue. But I figured they die on the stick anyway, so why not on me.
Late in the evening after the flies retired, I started to walk around and ask everyone their ideas for costumes. I was exited about everyones creativeness. I gained my first respect for the Swedish guys when I saw them constructing their costumes. On their first night on the island they already understood this place and the fun it can bring. I walked into our dorm to find Robert making a 2 meter bow for his Robin Hood, Sebastian working on a broom for Harry Potter, Anton making a "Braveheart" sword, and Christopher fashioning a head piece for his Caesar costume. Keep in mind, all their material came from the island. No stores or anything here, everything was natural.
The rest of the island didn't disappoint either, with great costumes from everyone. My other Swedish friends who I love so much, My, Ines, and Joacim, made cat ears out of Ines' bra for Joacim, we had Jesus, a Roman soldier, another cat, Frogman, Zombie, Vikings, Alice in Wonderland characters, shipwreck survivors and more. All came together for the amazing feast of food. From Chicken to Squid, we savored it all. After dinner we had one of the largest games of Kings ever, with Cheese having to speak in an Indian accent the entire game and plenty of other insanity. After an hour of scrubbing in the sand and water and trying everything from soap to insect repellent, I realized I would have to live with "no-rat" on my body for awhile. I guess since I had it on so long it became united with my body. It would end up taking a full 48 hours to finally get it off, luckily I managed to sleep on my back so I didn't get stuck to my bed. Soon after attempting to rid myself of what I'm convinced as the world's stickiest substance, I joined the Dutch girls in their games. Lots of animal noises lead to plenty of face paint, I turned into a "lady boy"...it was an amazing night.
The rest of the island didn't disappoint either, with great costumes from everyone. My other Swedish friends who I love so much, My, Ines, and Joacim, made cat ears out of Ines' bra for Joacim, we had Jesus, a Roman soldier, another cat, Frogman, Zombie, Vikings, Alice in Wonderland characters, shipwreck survivors and more. All came together for the amazing feast of food. From Chicken to Squid, we savored it all. After dinner we had one of the largest games of Kings ever, with Cheese having to speak in an Indian accent the entire game and plenty of other insanity. After an hour of scrubbing in the sand and water and trying everything from soap to insect repellent, I realized I would have to live with "no-rat" on my body for awhile. I guess since I had it on so long it became united with my body. It would end up taking a full 48 hours to finally get it off, luckily I managed to sleep on my back so I didn't get stuck to my bed. Soon after attempting to rid myself of what I'm convinced as the world's stickiest substance, I joined the Dutch girls in their games. Lots of animal noises lead to plenty of face paint, I turned into a "lady boy"...it was an amazing night.
click to enlarge
check out the video of the barbecue, dress up & last parties
Traditions, Committees, & Sudden Goodbye
Everyday the boat came bringing new backpackers and supplies. I loved helping unload the boat! Bringing a load with Yot and Robert.
Coinciding with the "Ru-tine" were many traditions, some I made my own, others had been going on awhile. Being a mover in the past I still have a love for moving things and can't stand to see people moving things without helping. Feeling accepted as family after a few days I couldn't help myself but to give a hand to everyone unloading the boat. The worst were the huge ice blocks which I found out the hard way leave burns if you carry them the wrong way.
A few times I broke Alex and Cheese's "mine" rule, if you said "mine" you had to do ten push ups. As I was cranking out the push ups everyone else started shouting "quit showing off!" and other gibberish. Luckily I had my fair share of taunting the others as well. Cheese also started his own rule for me, where he wouldn't talk to me until I had six Klang's. I still don't know how that started. Also after awhile, I was never handed a Klang, they were always thrown my way which I really enjoyed.
There seemed to be a point of everyday where we would all compare our wounds and weird rashes or bites. Everyday seemed to bring a new cut or bump of some sort. No one ever complained. It wasn't a bad thing, if anything it was fun talking about how you got cut or wondering what kind of creature(or person) bit you.
The animals, if not a tradition, were a big part of our daily lives. The most notorious of all was Rambo the Goat. An enormous, hideous creature who was in a way was lovable and charming. Friendly but at the same time the worst bastard you ever would want to come across. Repulsive when he would drink his own piss, and delightful as he pushed his giant skull against your fist with Herculean force. I despise most reality television, but if there is one animal who deserves a show it's Rambo. Mounting everything from the steps up to the lounge to the helpless females, drinking rum and beer, causing drama wherever he is, he'd be an instant star.
The other animals were more laid back but equally loved. Pringles the cat, sharing his name with the potato chip he loved so much, was always on the prowl at night for a snack and then would curl up in our dorm beds during the day to sleep. The dogs were all amazing and would fight all over the lounge, not having a care as they slammed into the backpackers as we ate dinner. Luckily we didn't care either.
A few times I broke Alex and Cheese's "mine" rule, if you said "mine" you had to do ten push ups. As I was cranking out the push ups everyone else started shouting "quit showing off!" and other gibberish. Luckily I had my fair share of taunting the others as well. Cheese also started his own rule for me, where he wouldn't talk to me until I had six Klang's. I still don't know how that started. Also after awhile, I was never handed a Klang, they were always thrown my way which I really enjoyed.
There seemed to be a point of everyday where we would all compare our wounds and weird rashes or bites. Everyday seemed to bring a new cut or bump of some sort. No one ever complained. It wasn't a bad thing, if anything it was fun talking about how you got cut or wondering what kind of creature(or person) bit you.
The animals, if not a tradition, were a big part of our daily lives. The most notorious of all was Rambo the Goat. An enormous, hideous creature who was in a way was lovable and charming. Friendly but at the same time the worst bastard you ever would want to come across. Repulsive when he would drink his own piss, and delightful as he pushed his giant skull against your fist with Herculean force. I despise most reality television, but if there is one animal who deserves a show it's Rambo. Mounting everything from the steps up to the lounge to the helpless females, drinking rum and beer, causing drama wherever he is, he'd be an instant star.
The other animals were more laid back but equally loved. Pringles the cat, sharing his name with the potato chip he loved so much, was always on the prowl at night for a snack and then would curl up in our dorm beds during the day to sleep. The dogs were all amazing and would fight all over the lounge, not having a care as they slammed into the backpackers as we ate dinner. Luckily we didn't care either.
click here to enlarge
One day after I had my "shower" for the night I was roaming around the lounge asking all my friends if they wanted to play cards. No takers so I decided I'd walk around to every other table and ask people. This became one of my favorite traditions and I called it the welcome committee. It was a great way to meet all the new people and make them feel at home like I already did. I met a lot of great people this way who I might have never got a chance to meet, even though there were never that many people on the island it was still easy to fall into groups. The welcome committee would usually turn into the game committee at night where I would drift around the lounge and search for people who wanted to get into our games. This usually ended up producing some massive games which were extremely entertaining.
One morning, a couple days before I left I was sound asleep at 8:30am until a few of the staff interrupted everyones slumber and announced they were forming a "don't leave committee" for Jana who was there since I had been there. A very likable girl who no one wanted to see go, so I hopped out of bed a lot sooner than I planned and tried to search for Jana. I found her and she said everyone convinced her to stay! Happy that our mission was complete, I went to the bathroom and when I came out I found out she tricked us and had left! Luckily I got to say proper goodbyes when I met up with her in Bangkok. I learned a lesson from this though and I think it stuck in my head when it was my time to leave...
The last few days were amazing and I enjoyed great times with my Swedish brothers and all the lovely people I met during my welcome committees. We played a lot of games which involved silly side games such as "viking", "monkey", wearing stupid hats if you lose, running around the lounge while being chased by everyone, "gurgling", and making Michael Jackson noises, sounds, and moves. I learned some great Swedish drinking songs and we had a huge group swim out to a local boat through a sea full of plankton.
One morning, a couple days before I left I was sound asleep at 8:30am until a few of the staff interrupted everyones slumber and announced they were forming a "don't leave committee" for Jana who was there since I had been there. A very likable girl who no one wanted to see go, so I hopped out of bed a lot sooner than I planned and tried to search for Jana. I found her and she said everyone convinced her to stay! Happy that our mission was complete, I went to the bathroom and when I came out I found out she tricked us and had left! Luckily I got to say proper goodbyes when I met up with her in Bangkok. I learned a lesson from this though and I think it stuck in my head when it was my time to leave...
The last few days were amazing and I enjoyed great times with my Swedish brothers and all the lovely people I met during my welcome committees. We played a lot of games which involved silly side games such as "viking", "monkey", wearing stupid hats if you lose, running around the lounge while being chased by everyone, "gurgling", and making Michael Jackson noises, sounds, and moves. I learned some great Swedish drinking songs and we had a huge group swim out to a local boat through a sea full of plankton.
click here to enlarge
check out the video of my last nights and a tribute to some amazing friends
Here is a great song that goes pretty well with how I felt leaving, enjoy it if you'd like while reading about my trip back
I remember my last morning very well. I woke up early with no plans to leave, but knew I had to start heading back to Bangkok to fly home. I quietly packed my bag and waited until the last second. I nervously asked for my tab which I eventually quit keeping track of. After two of the best weeks of my life living like a king, I only owed 385 USD. I was prepared for the pressure from everyone to stay and I made it clear I was leaving no questions. As I made my rounds while everyone was eating breakfast it felt like just another welcoming committee except I was leaving. Everyone was already loaded in the boat while I was getting my last goodbyes in and I was getting warned the boat was about to leave. The last bear hug and peer pressure to stay from Saskia to stay was tough, but my mind was made up. As I was walking down the stairs of the lounge, Charlie and Lewis shouted my name and in true Koh Ru fashion tossed me a Klang in a Koh Ru Koozy(or condom as they call it) for the boat trip and to remember everyone by. Getting on the boat to leave was fairly easy, pulling away from the island was a different story...
I got the last spot on the boat, sitting at the very front all by myself. As we pulled anchor, the engine came alive and began it's journey back to the mainland. As I cracked open my last beer a wave of emotion came over me. It finally became a reality what I was doing. I was leaving the island and it's simplicity, the laid back people and all their laughs, alone. There were people on the boat who I knew, but I didn't see them. I was in my own world, my own nightmare it seemed. For a person who loves solitude and finds loneliness as a blessing and not a curse, I was alone and lonely in a bad way for the first time in my life. As the beach got smaller and smaller I reflected on all the great memories I shared with everyone there. It was a bittersweet experience, having a long time to reflect on the good times but realizing they were coming to an end and I might never see some of these great people again.
As the island disappeared my thoughts turned to the mainland. Horrible thoughts filled my mind and I didn't know how I'd react to all the annoying people. It was a very long boat ride to say the least. As I arrived back in Sihanoukville that morning, everything seemed pretty dead. Maybe because it was early, maybe it was because I looked like a crazy person. I had my best "don't you dare talk to me" face on, added to my rugged appearance. I had the same swimming trunks I had worn everyday for the past two weeks without a wash, covered in face paint, "no-rat" glue, and dirt the ocean water doesn't get out. My handlebar mustache with traces of face paint went well with wild hair that hadn't seen soap in weeks. My body was covered in bites, rashes, cuts, scrapes. I wore no shirt or japandals. Not one moto driver asked me if I needed a ride, no one asked me to eat breakfast at their place, nobody bothered me.
I bought a ticket on the sleeper bus to Bangkok, took a shower, and caught up with the outside world. I went and bought a book that I didn't have time to finish on the island and spent the rest of the day reading. It was hard to read when it got close to dark, all I could think about was what everyone was doing back on the island. I found writing in my journal helped a lot. This is straight from my journal, I know there are a lot of repeats but I found writing everything that came to mind helped ease my longing to be back on the island...
"woke up at 9am and decided to leave. saying goodbye to everyone was so hard. it was like leaving my family but knowing i may never see most of them again. the boat was the worst. i could not hold back a few tears watching the beach disappear. as i drank my last free klang in a "condom" from lewis and charlie it was extremely bittersweet. i miss the dogs, rambo, pringles, the staff, the people, the hammocks, the water, plankton, everything was perfect. mainland was easier than i thought. maybe because i looked so savage! only wearing my nasty shorts with cuts everywhere. drank orange fanta for lewis and a klang for everyone. found out osu lost to uk. so glad i came out here. i miss everyone. night time is hard thinking of everyone. miss the people, food, deck, hammock, beach, parties, people throwing me a klang, dogs, pringles, locals and little kid, miss sitting on the floor, miss not wearing clothes, bath in ocean, being dirty, welcome committee, volleyball, dinner time with everyone around, i am the king! cheese not talking to me until 6 beers, chain smoking red ARA's, swedish people, british people, german people, everyone there, arriving in jeans, leaving savage, the routine.
I had many other rants in my journal on my way back home how much I missed this place and how I hated every other place(Bangkok, mainly). I'm glad I had the chance to experience this place before it's gone. I will try my best to be there for the last party before it's sold to the big resort company next year. Either way, this trip had a huge impact on my life just like every trip. Thank you Koh Ru, and all the amazing creatures you attract.
I got the last spot on the boat, sitting at the very front all by myself. As we pulled anchor, the engine came alive and began it's journey back to the mainland. As I cracked open my last beer a wave of emotion came over me. It finally became a reality what I was doing. I was leaving the island and it's simplicity, the laid back people and all their laughs, alone. There were people on the boat who I knew, but I didn't see them. I was in my own world, my own nightmare it seemed. For a person who loves solitude and finds loneliness as a blessing and not a curse, I was alone and lonely in a bad way for the first time in my life. As the beach got smaller and smaller I reflected on all the great memories I shared with everyone there. It was a bittersweet experience, having a long time to reflect on the good times but realizing they were coming to an end and I might never see some of these great people again.
As the island disappeared my thoughts turned to the mainland. Horrible thoughts filled my mind and I didn't know how I'd react to all the annoying people. It was a very long boat ride to say the least. As I arrived back in Sihanoukville that morning, everything seemed pretty dead. Maybe because it was early, maybe it was because I looked like a crazy person. I had my best "don't you dare talk to me" face on, added to my rugged appearance. I had the same swimming trunks I had worn everyday for the past two weeks without a wash, covered in face paint, "no-rat" glue, and dirt the ocean water doesn't get out. My handlebar mustache with traces of face paint went well with wild hair that hadn't seen soap in weeks. My body was covered in bites, rashes, cuts, scrapes. I wore no shirt or japandals. Not one moto driver asked me if I needed a ride, no one asked me to eat breakfast at their place, nobody bothered me.
I bought a ticket on the sleeper bus to Bangkok, took a shower, and caught up with the outside world. I went and bought a book that I didn't have time to finish on the island and spent the rest of the day reading. It was hard to read when it got close to dark, all I could think about was what everyone was doing back on the island. I found writing in my journal helped a lot. This is straight from my journal, I know there are a lot of repeats but I found writing everything that came to mind helped ease my longing to be back on the island...
"woke up at 9am and decided to leave. saying goodbye to everyone was so hard. it was like leaving my family but knowing i may never see most of them again. the boat was the worst. i could not hold back a few tears watching the beach disappear. as i drank my last free klang in a "condom" from lewis and charlie it was extremely bittersweet. i miss the dogs, rambo, pringles, the staff, the people, the hammocks, the water, plankton, everything was perfect. mainland was easier than i thought. maybe because i looked so savage! only wearing my nasty shorts with cuts everywhere. drank orange fanta for lewis and a klang for everyone. found out osu lost to uk. so glad i came out here. i miss everyone. night time is hard thinking of everyone. miss the people, food, deck, hammock, beach, parties, people throwing me a klang, dogs, pringles, locals and little kid, miss sitting on the floor, miss not wearing clothes, bath in ocean, being dirty, welcome committee, volleyball, dinner time with everyone around, i am the king! cheese not talking to me until 6 beers, chain smoking red ARA's, swedish people, british people, german people, everyone there, arriving in jeans, leaving savage, the routine.
I had many other rants in my journal on my way back home how much I missed this place and how I hated every other place(Bangkok, mainly). I'm glad I had the chance to experience this place before it's gone. I will try my best to be there for the last party before it's sold to the big resort company next year. Either way, this trip had a huge impact on my life just like every trip. Thank you Koh Ru, and all the amazing creatures you attract.